Weekend Update: 11/7/09

Instead of doing my usual restaurant review or wine tasting note, this past weekend brought many events worthy of mention so I decided to employ a more inclusive format, a la one of my favorite Saturday Night Live segments (only I prefer the old Weekend Update with Norm Macdonald rather than the modern Jimmy Kimmel/Tina Fey improv).

In any event, Friday night took me to Basil Thai, another one of Charlotte Magazine's top-12 restaurants for 2009. (In case you didn't read my last post, I've made an early New Year's resolution to try all 12 before the end of 2010.) The atmosphere is very classy, featuring high ceilings, a large bar area, and a dimly lit ambiance. The menu is rather expansive, with a large entree section comprised of noodle dishes, pad thai, curries, house specialties, soups, starters, and so on. Our server was very friendly, offering us a taste of the J. Lohr Chardonnay that priced at the low-$30s, was a smart choice and complimented the spicy cuisine superbly.

I strongly recommend the soup for starters, which is served in a large flaming urn, pictured above. The fire did die out after a few minutes, however. Nonetheless, it was excellent wonton soup and provided an extra element of "fun." For entrees, the pad thai was classic. It was a large portion and I look forward to finishing it for lunch on Monday! The menu claims that the crispy duck and red curry was Chef Suntorn's "signature dish," but I must admit, at $25, was not something I would order again. The duck itself was a bit greasy due to the deep fry, and the red curry sauce was thin. The dish was served with a large portion of sticky white rice and a vegetable medley of snap peas, carrots, and asian slaw. It was flavorful all mixed together, but standing alone each element of the dish fell flat in my opinion. It seemed a bit "Americanized" if you know what I mean. It didn't taste like authentic thai food. I consumed my fair share, of course, but if I were return I would try something different.

My overall opinion of Basil Thai is that it was over priced for the quality. I have had much better thai food at Sawasdee in Raleigh for far less. At Basil Thai you're paying a premium for location and ambiance. Don't get me wrong, the food wasn't bad, just nothing special in my opinion. Maybe I will try it for lunch one day and see if my opinion changes.

The next highlight that I wanted to share concerns wine. Good wine. No, great wine. Yes, I had a glass of the 1990 Chateau Lynch-Bages (Pauillac). A quick Internet search indicates that were you to buy this wine at retail price today, you could expect to pay over $300 per bottle. No, I didn't spend that. In fact I didn't spend a dime. Saturday night I attended a cocktail party at my boss's house and thankfully there are several wine afficianados in my firm. Someone else had brought the wine and was in the spirit of sharing. By the time I tasted it, I was already several drinks in and my palette was not exactly in tune for such a standout wine, but I do recall it was classic Bordeaux - medium bodied, very fragrant, and had an everlasting finish of refined oak and cedar. It was very elegant and I am grateful for the experience. Prior to that I was drinking the Titus 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. At roughly $40 per bottle, this was nothing to sneeze at either. In fact, it was excellent, and on par with the Chappellet Napa Cabernet that I tasted awhile back. The Titus had a strong underpinning of Chocolate, and that classic stain-your-teeth purple tannic structure that Napa Valley is known for. It was delicious and would be a no brainer with any cut of steak. The Lynch-Bages would be as well, but I don't suppose many people are going to run out and buy it at that price. Lynch-Bages is typically something you buy when the new vintage comes out and lay it down in your cellar for many years. It is a wine that always gets better with age. Lynch-Bages was not denominated as a "first growth" at the historical 1855 classification, but is widely regarded as one of the best second growths, and rightly so in my opinion based on the 1990 I tasted.

I was also able to make it over to The Liberty, Chef Tom Condron's (of Harper's Restaurant fame) newest venture on South Blvd. It is billed as a gastropub, the English version of a bar with lots of beers on tap that serves food. I was only there for a couple of beers, but the beer list is impressive and the outdoor patio was the perfect place to relax and sip. I plan to go there for dinner in the near future, so stay tuned for my full review.

Lastly, as referenced in my last post, The Ritz / BLT Steak has opened Uptown. I actually found myself at the Ritz lobby bar on both nights this weekend, and now I plan to give my wallet a much needed break. Yes, the Ritz is pricey. $6-7 beers and $10-15 glasses of wine are standard. But the ambiance is classy. There is a large lounge area with a fireplace, sofas and seating for probably close to 100 people. Servers as dressed in a uniform of shiny red dresses and pearl necklaces, and provide table-side wine pouring service. It felt very 1950's. Drinks are also served with a trio of assorted bar snacks - salt and vinegar chips, chex mix, and almonds. Live music plays until midnight, providing enough entertainment to make a night of it. I still have not made it to BLT Steak, but I'm thinking that the upcoming holidays will provide me with the opportunity soon enough.

That's about it, I guess. It was a big weekend as you can tell. But always fun!

Customshop (and a sneak peak at BLT Steak!)

Helen Schwab has beat me to the punch on announcing the opening of BLT Steak @ the The Ritz in Uptown Charlotte (I guess it is to be expected given that she's the food writer for The Charlotte Observer). In any event, both the hotel and the restaurant are new, and I cannot wait for an opportunity to venture over there myself. Be sure to check out her post (hyperlinked above) for a preview of the menu and to read her review, which was very good!

The real reason for this post, however, is to give you my thoughts of Customshop, which recently made Charlotte Magazine's list of the top 12 places to eat now. As an aside, I'm making it my New Year's resolution to eat at all 12 restaurants before the end of next year (I've already eaten at 4 of them - Customshop, Good Food on Montford (click for my review), Blue, and Las Ramblas). Yeah, I guess it might be a little too early to make a new year's resolution, but it's hard not to look forward to the upcoming holiday season.

Customshop is a darkly lit, intimate little bistro on trendy Elizabeth Ave, right next to Carpe Diem, another top 12 restaurant. Owner and Executive Chef Trey Wilson has been getting rave reviews from national foodie publications. Customshop is known for its inventive and creative flair, with an emphasis on fresh seafood and local ingredients. The wine list is rather eclectic, but don't let that fool you. The short list of selections are well thought out and designed to compliment the menu's offerings.

On this particular night, we sat first at the bar for a cocktail and some crudo. At $14, the crudo sampler for two is a no brainer. Crudo is essentially the Italian equivalent sushi/sashimi; raw fish dressed with olive oil, sea salt, and citrus juice. The Grouper with fresh jalapeno and grapefruit juice was my personal favorite, Jennie preferred the Tuna with sea salt and olive oil. We both had a Manhattan, a Customshop classic that was elevated by the addition of premium bitters and elderflower.

Once we were seated, it was hard to chose just one entree as they all sounded delicious. I love a restaurant that really knows how to describe its food. I ultimately went with the Squid Ink Linguine, King Crab, Mint & Chili for $18. All of the pastas are made in-house at Customshop, and you could tell based on this dish. There were huge lumps of crabmeat that necessitated shredding apart, and a spicy element that grew subtly after each bite. My only criticism is that I could not discern any mint, if it was even present at all. But I would definitely order this dish again, just maybe not until I have the chance to order everything else on the menu first! (Think pumpkin gnocchi with lobster and tuscan style swordfish).

The Black Grouper with Sweet Potato and Stewed Oyster Mushrooms was also excellent. It should be noted, however, that the sweet potatoes are not mashed but par-boiled and served al dente. This probably should have been made more clear on the menu.

For dessert, the bread pudding was large enough to serve 2-3 people, but we managed to eat most of it nonetheless. Served hot with a melting scoop of vanilla ice cream and a liberal dusting of cinnamon, I am craving a bowl of it right now.

All said, Customshop merits serious consideration for anyone willing to break beyond the mold of Uptown restaurants. I would definitely return, and the bar itself would be a great place to drop in for drinks and appetizers. With a frequently changing menu, a visit to Customshop virtually guarantees fresh ingredients and inventive cuisine. Highly recommended.

La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux Rouge Recolte 2007

Really flashy bottle of wine for a mere $10 or less! Lots of red fruit flavor and nice balance. Very soft. Tastes like strawberries and dark cherries dusted with cinnamon and anise, with a faint hint of milk chocolate on the finish. Nice acidity and light to medium bodied mouthfeel. Highly drinkable and easy going, you will want to consume the entire bottle in one sitting. The moderate tannin structure to this wine means means that there is less of that residual grape residue that stains your tongue and tires your palette.

Hailing from the Perin family of French winemakers, this is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Cinsault and 15% Carignane, which is typical of the region. Cotes du Ventoux puts out some remarkably good values and the red wines tend to be well-balanced, complex, and medium bodied. Spice characteristics and bright fruit flavors generally predominate. If you can't find this particular wine at your favorite store, try something from the Cotes du Ventoux - you won't be disappointed.

Twigs Restaurant & Bar, and fall getaway to Blowing Rock, NC

Heading into October, I realized that it had been a few years since I visited the North Carolina mountains. Growing up, I spent a lot of time there. My extended family would pile into my grandparent's vacation house at Grandfather Golf & Country Club during the fall season, and pretty much year round for that matter. Some of my favorite childhood memories stem from that house and all the fun things we did there. Unfortunately it was sold years ago but the memories will always remain. For instance, there was a pond in the backyard that my grandfather stocked with huge mountain trout. We would wake up early and throw fish food at the trout, and they would practically jump out of the water to gulp up the brown pebbles. The house was situated on a relatively secluded lot on a hill, providing an acre or so of wooded and rugged terrain to explore. Of course, I also played my fair share of golf at what was, at that time, widely regarded as the best mountain course in the state and a perennial Golf Digest national top 100 course.

Unable to replicate those exact experiences, I figured at the very least that it would be a great time for a short weekend mountain getaway. My plan was to enjoy the fall foliage and cooler weather, and re-visit some of the places I enjoyed so much over the years. Blowing Rock is about an hour and half from Charlotte - a leisurely and uncomplicated drive. We checked into a Villa at The Blowing Rock Inn, which was probably more than we needed for one night (it had a living room and kitchenette, along with two queen beds), but the location was unparalleled.

Our first destination was the Moses Cone Manor House and Park located just a couple miles down the Blue Ridge Parkway. We made the 5 mile hike up to the Flat Rock Lookout, and then perused the Manor House. We then ventured into downtown Blowing Rock for lunch and a beer at The Six Pence Pub, followed by some serious window shopping at all the quaint village stores. However, the real highlight on day 1 was dinner at Twigs Restaurant & Bar, pictured below.

I have been to Twigs once before, and on this occasion it delivered another memorable evening. We started with roast artichoke and sundried tomato bruschetta, which was a good starter with the Dynamite Merlot 2006. All entrees include a salad, and Twigs has some of the most delicious homemade dressings like Gorgonzola Walnut and Roasted Tomato and Garlic Vinaigrette. I opted for the house specialty, Crab Cakes, made from jumbo lump crabmeat and absolutely delicious. Somewhat surprisingly, Twigs is equally adept at steaks, and the 8oz filet mignon was served at a perfect rare temperature as requested. For dessert, the warm pecan bar topped with vanilla ice cream was just right. After dinner we headed to the bar (pictured below) just in time for the band to start playing their second set, where we finished off the night with a few more rounds of drinks and more good times.

Day 2 brought some hangover headaches from the night before, but we woke up early and headed to Grandfather Mountain nonetheless. After buying our entrance tickets we wound our way up to the nature preserve to see the bears. These are not your ordinary bears. You actually get to stand about 20 feet from them, and from above looking down, get to feed the bears by lobbing them peanut sized bites which the bears have an uncanny ability to catch in their mouth. In fact, if your toss isn't within the immediate vicinity of the bears' mouth, chances are they will just let it fall to the ground and wait for someone else to throw another! They are quite lazy bears! But very funny. We also saw lots of deer, a bald eagle, and cougars, but the bears are the decided highlight. After that, we went further up the mountain to the famous "swinging bridge" from which you have a 360 degree view from 1 mile up. Really breathtaking. I will try to post some pictures in the future once I download them from my camera.

Sanford Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2007

Perfectly balanced, rich, creamy Chardonnay with lingering tropical fruit notes. Reminiscent of lemon, pineapple, and mango dipped in melted butter. At $20 per bottle, you aren't going to pop the cork every night, but it is certainly a good value for the quality. I have tasted Chardonnay three times the price and this Sanford is what I would expect for a $40-60 bottle. This wine is a no brainer for grilled chicken, pork, or seafood, or lighter cream-based pastas. Also is smooth and very drinkable standing alone. Santa Barbara is known for producing Chardonnay with this flavor profile, so if you're ever looking for a full bodied Chardonnay you likely won't go wrong with anything from this region of California.

Il Cuore Rosso Classico Mendocino County, CA 2007

14.1% alcohol, 51% Syrah, 26% Zinfandel, 12% Sangiovese, 6% Carignane, and 5% Merlot, this Italian blend produced in Mendocino County, California is the textbook example of what an affordable, everyday bistro-style wine should be.

Gushing with flavor of crushed berries (along the bright red spectrum: boysenberry, cranberry, cherry, strawberry, and raspberry), this wine also has a refreshing acidity, velvety and jammy mouthfeel, and just the right amount of dusty tannins and mineral nuances on the finish. This wine can be many things to many people. An excellent quaffer, this wine should also compliment a wide range of foods, from the biggest steaks to hearty tomato-based pastas, and even lighter fare such as grilled chicken or salmon.

I am really impressed by this wine, and it only costs $9.99 at Common Market in Charlotte. Unfortunately, I think I may have grabbed the last bottle in stock, but this wine should not be too hard to find with a little searching in specialty wine shops, or you can visit the website and arrange for direct shipment.

The playful label artwork (Il Cuore means "the heart" in Italian) adds to its casual appeal, the design for which was created by Dan Rizzie, whose bold cubist works are in the permanent collections of both the Metropolitan Museum and the Museum of Modern Art in NYC.

I haven't done a wine review for Vino Mundo in awhile, but I am inclined to give this wine a big score. For me, this wine deserves 93-94 points. It's by far one of the more impressive bottles I have had in a long time.

La Cava, ti penso siempre, mi manchi, cara mia

If you ever find yourself on Interstate 85 halfway between Charlotte and Greensboro with enough time to spare for a sit-down dinner, you could have one of the amazing meals of your life. No, I'm not kidding. An authentic Italian restaurant tucked inside an old church dating to the 19th century, La Cava aims to enchant and amaze with it's first-rate cuisine and old world charm.

La Cava, view from the outside

Only two turns and under two miles from the highway exit ramp, La Cava is easy enough to find. On my way through historic downtown Salisbury I couldn't help but notice the white column brick building with a fancy blue sign proclaiming "Elizabeth Dole's National Headquarters," only then to spot a giant For Sale sign in the parking lot. Upon entering La Cava I was immediately struck by the high ceilings and giant stained glass windows, apparently the original leaded glass has survived since 1897. There was a bar to the right to which I belied up for a Maker's Mark on the rocks while I waited for my date to arrive.

Stained Glass Window, one of many

From glancing around the place it seemed like there were several "regulars" talking to the hostess, a tall brunette woman with a strong accent, but very friendly nonetheless. There was also an attractive young blond girl and between these two that seemed to comprise the entire waitstaff on that night. Not that this was a bad thing; on the contrary, I rather enjoyed the slower pace and we were actually able to form a nice relationship with these two people through our discourse about the various menu offerings that evening.

Main Dining Room

I had requested a special table in the wine room, which is actually just a nook where the old alter used to be; it was nothing too special but fun nonetheless and it did provide a nice elevated view of the restaurant. (My understanding is that La Cava also has outdoor seating on a secluded patio).

Wine alcove

La Cava had a surprising number of specials for a Tuesday night. We started with some fresh Italian meats and cheeses, carved right off the block. I splurged a bit on a nice bottle of Italian red wine, the Travaglini Gattinara (2003, $69) (we were celebrating the fact that we had both passed the NC bar exam and were newly minted attorneys-at-law). That selection turned out to pair perfectly with everything we ordered, and got better with each successive glass. It was classic Italian in its relative austerity compared to Californian brutes, but really hedonistic with layers of medium-weight fruit and spice notes. (And La Cava scores extra points in my book for serving the wine in oversized crystal balloon glasses with flared lips).

Next we had steamed mussels in a spicy marinara sauce with a loaf of crusty white bread. No description I could give would possibly do this dish justice. The mussels were standard issue I suppose, but I wanted to live in the homemade spicy marinara sauce. Neither of us could resist the urge to dip our spoons in and slurp it up, hardly bothering to find a mussel (but we did eventually eat all of the mussels).

For our entree course, we both opted for pork chops, both of which were Sterling Silver Center-cut and at least an inch and a half thick, but each came prepared in a different way. Mine was grilled with rosemary, garlic and olive oil and topped with fresh arugula and shaved parmesan. It was a special on this night but I suspect it could be prepared to order on most nights. My date preferred the pork chop alla Zingara, meaning it was pan seared and roasted with prosciutto, artichoke and mushrooms, and served with roasted potatoes. Each was amazing in its own right, and we were both satisfied with our selections.

For dessert, unfortunately the kitchen was not equipped to handle my souffle request (even though it is listed on the menu), but to my chagrin an entire dessert cart was then wheeled out with adequate substitutes ranging from homemade chocolate cake, mousse, gelato, Amaretto tiramisu, and literally everything in between. We chose the Amaretto tiramisu and never looked back. It was very light and moist and you could tell they did not skimp on the hooch. Coffee and espresso were also served.

La Cava is not cheap, and while by no means was I intending to restrain myself on this occasion (in case that wasn't abundantly obvious from the quantity of food we ordered), for the price the quality of the food and the personal attention given by the waitstaff far outweighed the $200+ check. I would definitely return and will be recommending this to anyone I ever meet from Salisbury or otherwise who I think would be interested.

As any regular reader of this blog knows, I live for food and wine and dining out, and I am still chuckling to myself that one of the best restaurants in all of my experience is buried away in sleepy old Salisbury. It is by far the best kept secret I have discovered in my limited years of dining out. Perhaps it was because I had just passed the bar exam (one of the highlights of my life, if not the highlight), perhaps it was because I had landed a great job and was still beaming from the excitement, or perhaps it was because of my wonderful dinner companion, but in my opinion La Cava is one of the most beautiful and authentic restaurants I have ever been to. Do yourself a favor and check out La Cava. They have a website. And it's well worth the drive.

Nikko Sushi Bar (South End location)

Nikko is not your average Japanese sushi restaurant. That's apparent the first time one witnesses owner Joanna Nix prancing around the restaurant with her black cowboy hat and pink boa, shaking her tambourine and pretending to sing karaoke to the likes of Lady Gaga and Britney Spears. This routine was repeated every 15 minutes or so during a recent Friday night visit. (My apologizes for not capturing Joanna's true essence in this photo, but I couldn't find a picture of her with the pink boa anywhere on the Internet).

Atmosphere reins supreme at Nikko, from its Uptown location at the swanky Arlington building (a/k/a "the pink building") on South Boulevard about two blocks from my new digs, to it's see and be seen vibe and modern interior design. And be prepared for an eardrum workout: the music at Nikko is rather loud, and it feels as if you're dining in a nightclub at times. I think the experience would be more enjoyable if it were turned down a few decibels, but after dining at Mez @ The Epicentre the night before, apparently loud, club-like music is a mainstay of the Uptown Charlotte dining scene.

The service at Nikko was friendly and attentive, my only complaint being their unwillingness to take a reservation for two on a Friday night at 8pm, only for us then to arrive and then have to wait thirty minutes for a table. There is a bar and several high top bar tables along with a sofa lounge for this kind of thing, so it all worked out fine in the end.

In terms of the food, I have never been as impressed with the sheer number of offerings at any sushi restaurant. At it wasn't just the quantity that impressed me. In all my experience dining at asian restaurants (and believe me, I love sushi and all types of asian cuisine), only Nikko offers Toro, the super-premium grade tuna sushi that literally melts in your mouth. It is the sushi equivalent of Kobe beef.

Nikko also provided a reasonable value. Sushi and/or Sashimi sampler dinners were priced around $25 and included your choice of miso soup or house salad. Each was enough food to satisfy. Popular beers such as Sapporro, Kirin, and Asahi were available, and most were even on tap, I believe. Nikko also serves my favorite drink when I'm eating sushi: hot sake. There is something subliminal about the combination of hot sake and sushi that totally transcends just about any food and wine pairing I've ever experienced.

In all, Nikko was the highlight of the weekend dinners out for me. Mez, the new tapas style restaurant at The Epicentre I mentioned earlier, just didn't provide as memorable an experience. The food was too inconsistent (although I do recommend the black bass) and there was that loud, clubby atmosphere again that somehow didn't work as well at Mez as it did at Nikko. And forgive me for not posting on everything, but Zada Jane's at Plaza-Midtown was a perfect solution for Sunday brunch... amaretto french toast and the best omelette and organic Anson mills grits I've ever had, not to mention amazing coffee and a great outdoor patio. It was definitely home to the hungover 20-something crowd.

Next up on my food radar is Rooster's, a Jim Noble restaurant here in Charlotte that features lower prices than his namesake semi-chain of Noble's Restaurants, and an a la carte menu structure. I also have my eyes set on several others, so stay tuned as I transition Vino Mundo from its roots in Raleigh to the newest foodie blog in the Queen City, only now that I'm working full-time you can expect far fewer posts. Check back every week or so and I'll try to keep it fresh.

Good Food on Montford ... Yes, that's the restaurant's name, not a description of their food

For my first official night out in Charlotte, I decided to try a place I had been reading about in all the local Charlotte magazines, Good Food on Montford. The chef at Good Food on Montford (GFOM), Kerry Moffett, is the brother of the chef over at Barrington's, apparently one of Charlotte's best restaurants, if not the best, but unfortunately I have not had the pleasure to dine there ... yet.

After plugging the address into my GPS ... GFOM is not exactly located in an easy-to-find location, but didn't seem too far off the beaten path either. (Hey, I live downtown so anything that requires more than 5 minutes in the car seems like a road trip). Upon arrival at around 7:30pm the place was already busy, with only a couple of two tops available. The hostess informed us that it would be about a 45 minute wait, so we headed to the bar for some drinks and to wait for the third member of our party. The wine and beer list was well thought out, with some interesting options, though somewhat limited. I started out with a Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc from new Zealand which was refreshing and well-balanced, if maybe a couple of dollars more expensive than I am used to paying for that specific wine at West End Wine Bar in Chapel Hill. I guess I will have to get used to the marginal price inflation associated with moving to Charlotte from the Raleigh/RTP area.

Once seated, our waiter was attentive and knowledgeable, carefully explaining that GFOM is designed as a tapas-style restaurant, where everything on the menu is a la carte, and is served at the table as it is prepared by the kitchen, in no particular order. However, in truth, the food arrived generally in courses with certain items within each coarse perhaps taking a few extra minutes to arrive. This didn't bother us on this particular occasion but I can easily see how this style of serving could annoy the less tolerant among us. My recommendation is to come here with friends looking to catch up over a few drinks and some good food that will be shared. Ultimately I think that is the defining principle at GFOM: order a bunch of different items, and pass each one around to everyone for a couple of bites.

Some of the highlights from out meal included the Chilled Shrimp over a White Bean Salad with Arugala, the Foie Gras, Pan Seared Scallop over Pesto Angel Hair (a definite must order), Poached Salmon in Spicy Carrot Broth, Roasted Mushrooms, and of course, the Espresso Pot de Creme for dessert. Most selections were small to medium in size, but there was ample food to share between three people when each person orders three items each or more.

I definitely recommend a visit to Good Food on Montford. Just don't expect to have a quiet, formal evening out. This place is designed to be a casual yet hip urban foodie destination where good friends, good wine, and good food are a welcome change of pace from the typical night out.

Lemony Escarole with Halibut, Clams, and Pancetta

This recipe is an interpretation of a Tyler Florence original, is relatively easy to make, and tastes absolutely sublime. Here's what you will need for two servings:

2 Halibut filets (any flaky white fish will work - Seabass is a good substitute and I recommend you buy whatever looks fresh - just ask the fishmonger)

8-10 Clams

4 slices Pancetta

1 bunch of Escarole (this is a leafy vegetable so it should be located near the lettuce)

1 box (1 quart) low-sodium chicken broth

2-3 cloves of garlic, rough chopped

1 lemon, sliced thin and de-seeded

1 teaspoon sugar

2-3 bay leaves

1/4 bunch fresh thyme

salt and pepper to taste

EVOO

crusty french baguette

In a Le Creuset cast iron pot or large dutch oven, sautee the pancetta in a couple tablespoons of olive oil until crispy and curly and then set aside to drain on paper towels, reserving the olive oil and pancetta fat in the pot. Sweat the garlic in the reserved liquid for a minute, add the chicken broth, and set the temperature to high. Clean and chop the escarole once or twice (it doesn't need to be cut into bite sized pieces, but you don't want enormous leaves either). Add the escarole, lemon slices, bay leaves, thyme, and sugar into the pot. Cover the pot and braise, stirring occasionally until all the escarole is wilted into the chicken broth. Total cook time should be about 15 minutes. You'll know it's ready when the escarole is tender.

Here's the tricky part. While you're braising the escarole, you have to sautee the halibut filets in a separate pan. Liberally coat the fish with salt and pepper and get the pan really hot with several tablespoons of olive oil. Place the fish skin side down into the pan and sautee for about 5 minutes. Do not mess with the fish too much - you want to develop a crispy skin on one side before flipping it. When the fish is ready to flip, gently do so and simultaneously add the clams to the main pot. After a couple minutes or so, the clams will open up and the fish will be cooked through. Be sure to taste the broth at this point and add salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, scoop a portion-sized amount of the escarole into an individual serving bowl, then gently layer the halibut filet on top and surround it with 4-5 of the clams. Add an extra ladle-full of the broth and garnish with a couple pieces of the pancetta. Slice the bread to be used for sopping up the excess broth.

For wine, I recommend a dry white. On this occasion we drank the Chateau Graviere Grande Vin de Bordeaux Entre Deux Mers 2006. It resembled apple juice in color and had flavors of honey and pear, with floral notes around the edges. Very nice and a great bargain at $11.

Triangle Top 50 Food Magazine

Andrea Weigl at The News & Observer has done the unthinkable - compiled a list of the top 50 food icons in the Triangle. The list is fairly comprehensive with good representation from smaller areas like Carrboro, but there are notable exceptions from the list. However, this just goes to show that the Triangle has become one of the premier foodie destinations in the country. Check it out (click on the "next page" link at the top of the graphic when the window opens to scroll through the list - yeah, it's an interactive list).

Rosenblum Cellars California Zinfandel "Vintner's Cuvee XXXI"

I found this wine tucked away in a quickie mart, but don't be deceived - this wine is readily available most places where wine is sold. Rosenblum was founded in 1978 and is a solid producer of red wines, focusing most of their attention on Zinfandel, which is perhaps California's original and best varietal besides Cabernet Sauvignon.

Rosenblum's entry level Zin is called the "Vintner's Cuvee" and retails for around $10. Notably, instead of listing a vintage year on the label, Rosenblum opts for Roman numerals to designate each successive bottling. The "XXXI," or 31st bottling, is the most current release and the one you're likely to find on store shelves right now (ignore the "XV" in the photo above). Basically Roman numerals are used instead of the vintage year because wine label regulations specify that a certain percentage of grapes must come from a certain year in order to declare a specific vintage on the wine's label. It's not necessarily a bad thing, just different. To prove my point consider that Krug Champagne, which sells for over $100 per bottle, does not include a varietal either. Blame the Governmental regulatory lawyers. Oh wait... I'm a lawyer too. Oh well. Let's figure out if this wine is any good -

Rosenblum's website says:

"The Cuvée XXXI features aromas of black cherry, blackberry and raspberry, as well as spice and vanilla overtones. Medium-bodied and replete with acidity, this food-friendly wine pairs well with pizza, pasta, barbecue meats and poultry, as well as Italian and Mediterranean style foods."

In my opinion, that's an accurate description of this wine. I would add that raspberry and vanilla are by far the predominant flavors. Upon taking a whiff of this wine you are immediately hit with fragrant aromas of jammy, crushed red raspberries. Very strong nose that leaps from the glass. The flavor profile is very ripe and classic California Zinfandel - highly extracted, in your face, stain-your-tongue-purple for days. A touch on the sweet side due to the ripe fruit flavors, but really delicious. Oak is not noticeable if present at all. Very drinkable on it's own, this wine would also compliment steak and anything from the grill. Probably a great pairing with cheese and should be a nice barbeque wine too. I would strongly recommend this wine to anyone. Great wine at a great price. Rosenblum cements its legacy of one of the most consistent entry-level California Zinfandel producers.

The Borough Serves Really Good Bar Food!

The Borough occupies the corner parcel at the intersection of West Morgan and Dawson Streets in downtown Raleigh, about a block away from the Flying Saucer and the new Campbell Law School. Perhaps best known as a friendly hangout with great service and the famous P(om)BR (Pomegranate Pabst Blue Ribbon), I had been hearing lately that The Borough is also a great place for inexpensive yet inventive bar food.

Jennie and I have stopped by The Borough on several previous occasions for a round of draft beers, but had never eaten dinner there before. Saturday night we gave it a try and were very impressed. For starters we ordered a couple of beers - I had a Terrapin Imperial IPA and Jennie had the P(om)BR of course. After reading over on New Raleigh that The Borough grinds their beef in-house (and therefore their burgers can be cooked "to temperature") I ordered the "Brute Squad" medium-rare. It was a half pound burger served with fried onions, grilled mushrooms, jack cheese, and special sauce, to which I added fresh jalapenos (the super hot kind) for just 50 cents. It came served with a side item for $8, which is a great bargain in my opinion. For comparison that's a couple bucks cheaper than a burger and chips at The Raleigh Times, even without all the toppings.

The Brute Squad was one of the juiciest melt-in-your-mouth frame-grilled burgers I've eaten in recent memory. The special sauce resembled the McDonald's Big Mac special sauce, but in contrast The Borough's version was homemade and bright pink in color. All the toppings combined with the special sauce to truly lift this burger to new heights. The jalapenos were deliciously hot and mouth watering, so I ordered a second beer, this time opting for the Aviator Saison, which is made in nearby Fuquay-Varina, NC. It was smoother than the Terrapin and more refreshing. I added a side salad for $4 which was served with lots of veggies (carrots, tomatoes, broccoli and real arugula lettuce, not just iceberg). The "ranchero" dressing was a spicy kicked-up Ranch that I also highly recommend.

After our meal, we hoped on the new R-Line bus which stops directly outside The Borough and took the five minute ride down to Moore Square for "Downtown Live" where the 90's alternative band Cracker was playing to a large crowd. Although we arrived about 30 minutes into their set, we were fortunate enough to hear "Low" and several tracks from their new album. It cemented the night among one of the best I've had in Raleigh over the past few months. Give The Borough a try. It's good food, ya'll!

EVOO Restaurant Closed

Sadly, EVOO restaurant, a popular member of Raleigh's foodie scene, has closed it's doors for good. There does not appear to be any official reason behind this sudden announcement, but one can speculate as to either the increased competition on nearby Glenwood South or the highly publicized incident of food-borne illnesses back in April that hospitalized about ten patrons. EVOO was ultimately cleared of any responsibility for the incident, but as is so often the case, people react based on less than accurate information, and word of mouth travels quickly. EVOO was noticeably not doing much business on my two visits this year, so as is more likely the case, the closing is related to the down economy. EVOO has always been a neighborhood bistro kind of place due to its quaint location just less than a mile away from the Five Points area - exactly the kind of place that is disappearing in Raleigh due to all the emphasis on downtown development.

Fortunately, a note posted on the EVOO website proclaims that Chef and part-owner Jean Paul Fontaine is looking to open a new restaurant in the area. This is good news, and loyal fans and foodies alike will be eagerly awaiting further news on this new endeavor.

Feel free to check out my previous post on EVOO from February 2009. With all the recent celebrity deaths (Michael Jackson, Farrah Fawcett, and Ed McMahon) and violence in Iran, it seems as if something peculiar has been in the air this past week. Certainly EVOO will be remembered fondly by many. I know I will miss the quality service, fresh fish, Mediterranean sampler platter, and seared tuna appetizer.

The Perfect Birthday Present: Herons Chef Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings

My 27th birthday was June 11th, and to celebrate the occasion my girlfriend Jennie took me to Herons restaurant, which is located inside The Umstead Hotel in Cary, NC. For a little background, The Umstead is the most luxurious five star hotel in the state. There is really no competition. I don't say that to be pretentious, it's just the truth. The hotel opened a few years ago and was the pet project of Ann Goodnight, wife of Jim Goodnight, who is the CEO of SAS Institute and a multi-billionaire. I had not previously been to Herons or The Umstead before, nor had Jennie, so the experience was a first for both of us. In lieu of extensive written descriptions, I will primarily describe the evening through a series of photographs that I took along the way.

This is the exterior facade of the hotel; our first view as we walked down the pathway from the parking lot.

Main entrance to the hotel and restaurant. The Umstead is truly an architectural gem, as illustrated by the giant wooden overhang. As the next four pictures illustrate, The Umstead is also home to some amazing interior design work and is an artistic showcase in its own right.

These flowers composed the centerpiece at the front entrance of the hotel.

Walking down the hallway toward the restaurant, we were greeted with this striking arrangement.

This unique creation was on display at the hotel gift shop.

One of the many rooms composing the lounge at The Umstead.

Another photograph of the hotel lobby looking out to the back patio area. The spaces depicted in these pictures also serve as sitting rooms for the bar at Herons. The dark lighting schemes with contrasting artwork provided for a very romantic and relaxing atmosphere.

This mural was located directly across from the hostess stand at Herons. It was perhaps my favorite artistic installation on display.

We deliberately arrived 30 minutes prior to our dinner reservation so we could have a cocktail on the outside patio. We had a spectacular view of this fountain immediately in front of us.

This was the view to the left from our table on the patio. Later our waiter informed us that the fresh dill in our soup came from this herb garden.

As we took in the view, I sipped on a Tanqueray Rangpur and Rosemary (which also came from the herb garden no doubt). It was the best damn cocktail I have ever had. Period.

Jennie ordered the Pineapple Mojito which was also spectacular. After we finished our cocktails, we decided to eat dinner outside rather than in the main dining room since it was such a nice evening. Here's the basic outline of our menu that evening:

Herons

Chef’s Tasting Menu

Chilled Corn Soup, White Sturgeon Caviar, Potato Croutons, Dill

Chenin Blanc, Domaine Laffourcade, Savennieres, France 2006

Local Flounder, Sweet Peppers, African Squash, Chorizo Butter

Elyse, “Rose”, California 2008

Seared Foie Gras, Pecan Pudding, Onion Confit, Peach Marmalade

Moscatel, Portal, Douro, Portugal N.V.

Beef Filet, Short Rib Stew, Oak Scented Tomatoes, Cabernet Jus

Syrah/Mourvedre, Tete-a-Tete, Sierra Foothills, California 2005

Chocolate Cake, Mint Granite, Crunchy Meringue, Chocolate Sorbet

Merlot, Independent Producers, Columbia Valley, Washington 2007

Our first "first" course was actually courtesy of the Chef and is therefore not listed on the menu. It was a warm roast turnip soup with black truffles. This was so good I think I ate it in about three bites.

The real first course was the chilled corn soup with caviar, creme fraiche, fresh dill, and potato crouton as described on the menu. (Excuse the low resolution of these first few pictures - by this time the sun had fallen and I was still getting used to the settings on my camera). The presentation for this course was impressive - the waiters brought the bowls out with only the caviar and creme fraiche centerpiece and then poured the actual soup around the edge of the bowl. I particularly enjoyed the wine pairing with this course. Head Sommelier Justin Tilley served us a Chenin Blanc from France that was perfumed with aromas of lemon peel and wet stone, with some background tropical fruit notes; it was perfect to cut the richness of this soup.

For our second course, Chef Scott Crawford called an audible and served a seabass in place of the flounder listed on the menu. Good thing he did, because this was my favorite course of the entire evening, and Jennie was in complete agreement with me. At Herons, a perfectly cooked filet of fish is a given. It is the other components that justify the high prices. True to form, it was the African squash puree and chorizo brunois that stole the show. This dish managed to taste both fresh and rustic at the same time. I am sitting here trying to describe it to you, but I simply cannot. Words do not do it justice. Nor does the picture, since I accidentally took a bite from the right side before snapping this one! The wine pairing for this course was a rose from top producer Elyse. It had aromas of rose petals and flirted with strawberries on the palette.

Our third course took a decidedly more rich step in this seared foie gras layered atop a bread-pecan pudding and topped with orange marmalade. The smear of onion confit added further to the complexity of this dish. It was served with a Moscatel from Portugal, which had an aftertaste of toasted almonds and apricot. Dining outside in the summertime, we both felt like this was a bit too heavy to appreciate fully. I think it was the first time Jennie had foie gras, so I'm glad we could expand her culinary horizons. I do eat foie gras, although it is not something I normally order. I think if I were Chef Roberts I might have substituted a pasta dish in its place, or alternatively something green like the asparagus, morels, and duck ham that adorned last month's tasting menu.

Jennie is aglow after passing the foie gras test and now awaits our main course, filet mignon.

Filet mignon, cooked medium rare, with roasted tomatoes, mashed potatoes, and cabernet jus. The outside of the steak had the most amazing crust, as if seared over very hot coals. The roasted tomatoes melded with the cabernet jus to give each bite a very intense, delicious flavor. The mashed potatoes were smoother than silk. The wine for this course was a 50-50 Syrah-Mouvedre blend, which put off aromas of currant and red berries. It tasted like liquid raspberries, and was a perfect pairing with the filet mignon. I may go looking for this wine, I would like to have it again.

Moving on to dessert, we were presented with this chocolate cake, mint granite, crunchy meringue and mint oil. It was paired with a Washington Merlot that tasted of chocolate covered cherries - a very appropriate pairing. The crunchiness of the meringue and the mint oil combined to produce an experience similar to eating a peppermint, and the chocolate cake's brownie-like texture elevated things even further.

For the meal's encore, we were again presented with a "compliments of the chef" offering - only this time it was by the Sous Chef rather than the head Chef. To the left was pink lemonade morsels coated in white chocolate. To the right is sugary pecan brittle. Despite being about to pop from all the food, we somehow managed to find room for dessert course number two.

Finished with dinner but in no mood to drive back home just yet, we found a comfy sofa and listened to this guy play the last few songs of his nightly set. At first he was playing piano, then switched to an electric-acoustic guitar. Here's a sample of his playlist: Stairway to Heaven (instrumental), Halelujah - Jeff Buckley, Layla - Eric Clapton, and an amazing down tempo improvisation of Renee Olstead's "Summertime." It was the perfect ending to the most spectacular meal I have ever eaten. The Herons Chef's Tasting Menu with Wine Pairings was far more than just a meal or a birthday present, it was truly an evening experience that I will savor for the rest of my life. Thanks to Jennie for making it all happen and providing the company that made it so special.

This is Awesome: New York Times Spends 36 Hours in RTP

Check out this weekend's NY Times "Travel" section for the print version, also available online: Read the full story. They get down at The Pit, Poole's Diner, Father & Sons Antiques, Raleigh Times, etc...

Gravy Italian-American Kitchen Now Open in Downtown Raleigh

I posted a full-length review on New Raleigh, so I won't repeat myself here. But in short, Gravy is pretty good! It's not going to blow your mind but it definitely gets high marks for being reasonably priced and simple. There's nothing overly fancy about the menu, just Italian classics in a trendy bistro atmosphere. Gravy is a partnership between Bella Monica and Empire Eats, which also owns Sitti, Raleigh Times, Duck & Dumpling, and The Pit.

The "Meatballs and Gravy" at $8.95 was tasty and ever better with Portobello Mushrooms for an extra $2.50. The wine list is entirely Italian, and by-the-glass offerings start at just $5. Be sure to ask for bread if they don't bring you any, it is fresh baked and served with pesto and olive oil for dipping.

Due to the location downtown on Wilmington Street next door to Sitti (intersection of Wilmington and Hargett), it is sure to become a popular destination and reservations are suggested. The menu is now posted on Gravy's official website

Special thanks to Khaner Walker for the pictures.

Valentino: The Last Emperor

A bit off subject from food and wine, and I should have posted this earlier because it's no longer playing locally to my knowledge, but recently I saw one of the most entertaining films at The Rialto called Valentino: The Last Emperor. I guess you will just have to wait for it's DVD release, but judging by the film's popularity hopefully that will be sometime soon. 

Valentino: The Last Emperor is a documentary film about the legendary Italian designer Valentino Garavani set in the months leading up to his exit in 2008 from the company he founded in Rome more than forty-five years ago. Produced and directed by Matt Tyrnauer, Special Correspondent for Vanity Fair magazine, the film is an intimate and engaging exploration of one of Italy's richest and most famous men. The film documents the colorful and dramatic closing act of Valentino’s celebrated career, telling the story of his extraordinary life and work, while also exploring the larger themes affecting the fashion business today. But at the heart of the film is the unique relationship between Valentino and his business partner and companion of fifty years, Giancarlo Giammetti.

I don't want to play spoiler so I will leave you with that ... but this is a great film, hilariously funny at times and uniquely entertaining. It's also a great date movie. Check out the movie's official website

Poole's Downtown Diner Delivers Chef Ashley Christensen's Culinary Prowess with an Urban, Retro Vibe

I'm embarrassed to admit this, but I ate at Poole's Diner for the first time last Friday. It's been on my radar of places to try, but these days there is simply so much to choose from in Raleigh that things can easily get placed on the back-burner. I guess I was saving it in my back pocket for just the right occasion. First Friday finally provided me with the opportunity ... we were walking around downtown visiting all the open art galleries and enjoying the free cocktails, so Jennie and I decided that a great cap to the evening would be our first dinner at Poole's. 

The restaurant's atmosphere fits the description of a "diner" only in that there was a large rounded bar with old school laminate, bolted barstools, and a definite retro vibe. Otherwise the place seemed rather trendy. It was definitely bustling. We waited about 20 minutes for a table, but had no problem finding open bar stools from which to have a glass of wine before our meal. And what an impressive beer and wine list! Triangle Golden and London Pride were on draft, but there was an entire blackboard of by-the-bottle craft beer selections. The wine list was thoughtfully chosen by someone who knew what they were doing. The Cono Sur "Vision" Pinot Noir was very good and definitely a bargain at $8 per glass. 

Poole's opts for posting their nightly Southern-diner-meets-French-bistro menu on several large blackboards instead of offering individually printed menus. This certainly adds to the uniqueness of the place, but at times is a strain on your neck. My suggestion is to read the blackboard when you first walk in. Otherwise just ask the servers and they can describe the nightly offerings for you. There are really only a handful of entree options on any given night, so as to permit for only the freshest ingredients, so it's not like it should take you more than a couple glances to decide what you would like. Entrees come with side items, and run from $14 to the low $20's, but there is a separate board of a la carte side items, which on our visit included sauteed squash, fried green tomatoes, and macaroni and cheese, among others, all of which cost $7-10 each and portioned for sharing. Appetizers and salads are also available.

Our entrees arrived about 5-10 minutes later than we would have expected, but it was a busy night and everything turned out well worth the wait. Practically everything on both of our plates was literally "the best" we've ever tasted. Scallops with brown butter were perfectly cooked; tender on the inside and nicely browned on the outside. The local heirloom tomatoes that they were paired with provided a sweet and acidic compliment to the nutty flavor of the brown butter. My burgundy-braised boneless spare rib was charred to perfection yet fork tender on the inside, flaking nicely with each pass of the fork. It was paired with homemade potato salad which was light yet flavorful as a result plenty of fresh chive and sharp dijon mustard. We also ordered the macaroni and cheese, which was served in a large crock pot literally oozing with melted white cheddar and gruyere cheese. It was more than two people could handle, so we took the rest to-go and had the perfect late night snack for when we returned home.

In my opinion, Poole's Diner is the best restaurant in Raleigh. 

The clientele is primarily composed of younger downtown dwellers, but any true foodie will fit right in and feel at home. Just don't expect white tablecloth formalism or a quiet atmosphere. You may find yourself bumping elbows at the bar, and the tables are of average size unless you're lucky enough to get a booth. The restaurant is deliberately designed to be a cozy, inviting place. Poole's Diner is not a large restaurant so the volume also tends to echo on a busy night; but in my opinion these things just add to the upbeat, "see and be seen" atmosphere. Chef Ashley Christensen has developed a national reputation and devoted following because of her culinary prowess, and that's what takes center stage at Poole's.

Poole's is open for dinner and late night Wednesday through Saturday 5pm-2am. Brunch is also available on Saturdays and Sundays, but I suggest you call ahead to verify the hours. (919) 832-4477. 

I'll see your Two Buck Chuck and raise you .99 cents (Winking Owl Vineyards Merlot, California Non-Vintage)

I've been driving by the Aldi Food Market on Wake Forest Road (right before it turns into Falls of the Neuse) for several weeks now, and today I finally mustered the courage to venture inside. In general I was pleasantly surprised. No, it's not a foodie haven or anything like that. In fact, it's probably best described as a "poor man's Trader's Joes," which, by the way, has finally begun construction at its newest location at Wake Forest and Six Forks Road. 

One of my finds on this adventure was a small selection of maybe ten wines, all of which were priced under $6. Because I'm a wine geek, I couldn't pass up the opportunity. I chose the Winking Owl Vineyards Merlot from California, non-vintage. The label is like a phony rip off of Yellow Tail and all the other supermarket-branded wines that appear on the bottom shelves these days. Needless to say, my hopes weren't high, but then again at $2.99 it could taste like beet juice and I probably wouldn't complain. 

One redeeming quality about the Winking Owl line of wines is that the back label contains a "wine thermometer" that indicates the wine's taste from dry, semi-dry, semi-sweet, to sweet, and also the wine's style from light to full-bodied. The label also indicates that the wine has notes of subtle flavors of black cherry, mixed berries, and a hint of vanilla. The only reason I make such a big deal of this is because Jeff and Kipp over at NC Wine TV were just discussing a similar label on the Shelton Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Yadkin Valley, NC 2005. These types of labels are not always completely accurate, but they can be a nice guide to follow and can help assuage some doubt about what the wine will taste like in general. 

Unfortunately this wine is not something I would buy again. The label was somewhat accurate in advertising "subtle flavors" of black cherry, mixed berries, and vanilla, but the wine was rather sweet in contrast to its "dry" advertisement on the back label. The wine tasted fake, as if it was deliberately produced to have mass appeal to those that really prefer sweet cocktails or Duplin County sweet wines. It reminded me of Hawaiian Punch. This wine would probably be a big hit at a sorority date function, but otherwise, spend your $2.99 on some rice crackers or a bag of chips. 

Winking Owl also produces Chardonnay, Shiraz, and Cabernet Sauvignon, all of which are available at this particular Aldi. I might like to try the Shiraz or Chardonnay, varietals that in my opinion are generally more conducive to producing higher quality wines at lower prices. I welcome your comments if anyone has tried either of these. 

Cellar 4201 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006 (Yadkin Valley AVA, NC)

One of my biggest regrets about Vino Mundo is that I have not focused more on North Carolina wines. The reason for this is simple - the vast majority of NC wines are not sold in retail outlets statewide. Only the largest wineries, such as Childress, RayLen, Shelton, Biltmore, and a handful of others, supply grocery stores and independently-owned wine stores with their product. And this is understandable given that the vast majority of NC wineries simply do not produce enough fruit to warrant such large scale distribution. 

However, my favorite wine event was held this past weekend, the NC Wine Festival at Tanglewood Park, and I was able to taste a wide variety of NC wines from a good sampling of wineries. One of my favorites was from a new winery, Cellar 4201, which is located in East Bend, NC, within the Yadkin Valley AVA. Cellar 4201 had one of the most popular tasting tents, due to the fact that they had a large wooden tasting bar and plenty of fans to welcome festival-goers out of the blazing sun. I tasted their whole line of wines, and most were very good. But my favorite was this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, which cost $15. 

In the glass, the wine smells of dark chocolate and mint, with plummy-raisin fruit forming the backbone. The wine has a nice dark purple garnet color, and is medium weight for a Cabernet. The flavors echo the nose, with layers of plum, dark chocolate, stone, and some nice vegetal components like green pepper typical of most Yadkin Valley wines. The wine tastes elegant and classy for its young age (Cellar 4201's vines were planted in 2003, I believe). The finish is medium in length, and overall the wine is nicely balanced. 

You won't find Cellar 4201 except at the winery itself, City Beverage in Winston-Salem, or The Vino Shoppe in High Point. But shipping can probably be arranged by contacting the winery. Cellar 4201 has a full tasting room at the winery, and is part of the Yadkin Valley wine trail for those who may wish to visit. They also have a nice webpage with lots of information and history about the winery. Check them out. 

NC Wine TV Launched!

If any of you follow Gary Vaynerchuck's Wine Library TV, the infamous Internet television series focused on wine, then you already know what NC Wine TV is all about - tasting wines and giving viewers unbiased opinions about what's inside the bottle.

NC Wine TV is an online video show hosted by Jeff Cohen and Kipp Bodnar that is published twice weekly on Tuesday and Thursdays that is focused on reviewing wines produced in North Carolina. NC is now home to over 80 wineries, many of which have received national acclaim for the quality of the wines.

I cannot even begin to tell you how excited I am about this. Check it out for yourself. To date three episodes have been posted, focusing on Childress Vineyards, RayLen Vineyards, and Westbend Vineyards, all of which are located along the Yadkin Valley corridor, the state's premier grape growing region for European varietals (Muscadine grapes thrive in the eastern part of the state and are used to produce sweet wines).

I recently interviewed the guys at NC Wine TV and have posted a feature article on New Raleigh. Check it out.

Two Summer Wines

Over the long Memorial Day weekend I tried two wines worthy of mention that I want to share with you. The first was Havenscourt California Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 which I first tasted at The Point's weekly Monday night tasting. It is available at Epicur Distributors in Raleigh. The second wine is Chateau Vitallis Macon-Fuisse 2007, which I purchased awhile ago at Seaboard Wine Station. Both of these wines should cost around $15, give or take a couple of bucks.

The Havenscourt is rather light-bodied for a California Cabernet, but don't let that scare you away - it is full of flavor and is an ideal wine for pairing with just about anything off the grill. It went very well with hamburgers, bratwurst, and kabobs at our cookout. There is nice ripe fruit and berry flavors, and a lengthy finish with notes of currant and chocolate. One of the better Cabernets I've had in recent memory.

The Chateau Vitallis is imported from France, and though it's 100% Chardonnay, it reminded me more of a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, with sharp minerality and a clean flavors throughout. There was lots of lemon-lime, wet stone, grass/wheat, and some exotic peach/mango/pear notes as well. This wine was intense and also very long on the finish. It paired perfectly with Jamaican jerk rubbed Grouper and fresh corn and vidalia onion salad. 

Next time you head to the wine store ask if either of these are in stock. You won't be disappointed. Unfortunately no images of these wines were available online. 

Weekly Events: May 26 - 31

I think I will experiment with a new posting style. Instead of posting on one topic, wine, or restaurant, I am going to start merging multiple entries into a single post. This way I can include more content in less writing time, which is a benefit to me since I am so busy these days. Of course I may break my own rules here and there, but it's my blog so I can do what I want!   :P

In keeping with that spirit, I present to you the first ever Vino Mundo "weekly events," a post where I will share some of the highlights (in my opinion) of what's going on in Raleigh over the next few days. Hopefully this will be a useful compilation of relevant events (i.e., everything is food & wine related).  

Wednesday, May 27: Don't miss the Moore Square Farmer's Market from 10:30am - 2:00 pm, followed by the "Green Plate Special" at Second Empire Restaurant for dinner. I have previously posted on this monthly event, and it is truly a benefit for people working downtown who want to grab some fresh produce during their lunch break for home cooking throughout the week. Here is Second Empire's Green Plate Special menu:

• 1st Course: Fried Goat Cheese and Spinach Salad with Soy Ginger Vinaigrette 
  
• 2nd Course: Grilled Jalapeno Sausage and Pork Loin Roast over Creamy Grits and Braised Kale with a Cider Vinaigrette Reduction 
  
• 3rd Course: Strawberry Shortcake

$55 per person, which includes wine pairings for each course. Not a bad deal! Reservations required: (919) 829-3663.

Wednesday, May 27: Tune in to The Food Network at 8:30pm and watch The Pit's Pitmaster Ed Mitchell take on Bobby Flay on Throwdown. New Raleigh post here.

Friday, May 29: The Beehive Collective presents the "The Bee Ball: A Second Chance Prom" at the Berkeley Cafe, 8pm - 2am. Tickets are $10 and there will be live music of course! This is a charity event, so come out and have some fun! For more information, and to purchase tickets online, check out the website. 

Saturday, May 30: 9th Annual North Carolina Wine Festival at Tanglewood Park, Winston-Salem, NC, noon to 6:30pm. Tickets $20. Ok, so this isn't an event in Raleigh, but it is the premier wine tasting event in the state, featuring the wines from just about every major winery in NC. Featuring live entertainment, exhibitors, food vendors, and a whole lot of fun! It is only about a 2 hour drive from Raleigh, if that, and well worth it! For more info, and to purchase tickets online, visit the website. 

Saturday, May 30: For those not willing to travel to Winston-Salem, stay right here in Raleigh and check out Neomonde Bakery's Spring Festival, from 5pm-9pm. There will be live music, traditional and belly dancing, henna, children activities, great food, and fun for the whole family. For more info, check out my New Raleigh post on this event.

Enjoy! And let me know if I missed something!

Latest Update

I realize it's been awhile since I've posted anything but I've been out of my usual routine over the past couple of weeks due to law school graduation, trying to enjoy my last bit of freedom before bar review class starts, writing for the New Raleigh blog, and switching from my deadbeat Dell to a new MacBook laptop, which I love, by the way. So please excuse my temporary lack of new content for another week or so, but soon, I promise, I will resume my efforts here at Vino Mundo.

Let me just leave you with a few of the highlights from my adventures in Raleigh over the past couple of weeks. First, I had the most amazing Gewurtztraminer at The Mint Restaurant the other night. The Mint has a great upstairs bar and offers live jazz every Thursday night. Gewurtztraminer is a white grape varietal typically grown in Austria, although this one was from the Alto Adige region of Italy. It was crisp, refreshing, and very intense, with excellent fruit and minerality and a long finish. The producer is Cantina Nalles, 2007 vinatge, but I'm not sure of it's availability in Raleigh other than at The Mint. It should be available somewhere and if I find out I will report back.

Also, Monday night is a great time to head to Solas. The upstairs patio provides live music, discounted drink specials (1/2 price martinis and wine by the glass) and you can order a wide variety of "petite plates" for only $3 each. My recommendations are the Monetevina Sangiovese or the Pinot Noir by the glass, and for food, go with the Panko fried portobello mushroom, goat cheese salad, and cheese plate, all of which offer the most bang for your buck off the petite plate menu. Skip the shrimp cocktail petite plate, which is only one shrimp and for $3 is price gouging in my opinion. The best aspect of Mondays at Solas is that the VIP sofas on the roof are wide open and anyone is welcome to sit there on first come, first serve basis. So if you've been to Solas on a Friday and Saturday and always wanted to ball out on the VIP area, this is your chance!

Also a special thanks to Preservation North Carolina for the amazing reception, tour, and Taste of Downtown Raleigh! We really enjoyed touring the recent renovations on Fayetteville Street and I think I found my dream apartment! It was a second floor open loft style apartment with original hardwood floors, completely new kitchen, bath, and appliances, never lived in (since the renovations), and had four huge windows that literally opened up onto the center of Fayetteville Street overlooking The Mint from across the street. If only I could afford it right now! (If you're interested, contact Carter Worthy at Carter Worthy Commercial in Raleigh). It is truly one of a kind, and hopefully I can make it happen, if not now, then sometime down the road!

Finally, I hope everyone enjoyed Triangle restaurant week last week. A big thanks to the folks at TriangleBlvd for coordinating it. It was a good opportunity to try out some new places, and I was fortunate enough to make it to Duck & Dumpling, Four Square, and Savoy. I highly recommend all three of those places. My only complaint is that I wish more restaurants participated in restaurant week and that more options were offered at each course. Hopefully it will improve next year. This was only the second year the Triangle has held such an event, so it is still very much a work in progress and should get better as more excitement builds each year.

Finally, thanks to my loyal readers (Vino Mundo turns 1 year old this July!) Hopefully I will have something new after the long Memorial Day weekend. Cheers!

Los Arquillos Tempranillo 2007 (Castilla, Spain)

Unfortunately this wine is not exciting. It retails for around $12 and is imported locally from Spain. I purchased it after a wine tasting but I must have either confused the wines or was overwhelmed as a result of tasting many other wines. The nose puts off very little fragrance; perhaps a note of grape and herbs such as basil and oregano, but it is otherwise non-descript. On the palette the thin, watery quality of this wine is immediately evident, and there is no length on the finish. It is hard to define a flavor that predominates in this wine other than some grapeyness, sour cherry/strawberry and a touch of alcohol on the back end. There is some vague earthiness as a result of little discernible fruit and maybe a touch of fennel, but that's a stretch. However, the tannins are moderate and the wine is soft in the mouth, which is characteristic of most Tempranillo. I am not deliberately trying to belittle this wine, but I simply cannot find much positive to say about it. I guess it's a passable pizza wine, but I would certainly look for something else to buy before settling on this one. 79 points.

Four Square Flirts With Perfection

Four Square is one of the Triangle's best kept foodie secrets, if you can call it that. In truth most people serious about good food with the budget to back it up have been going to Four Square for years. Those from Raleigh who are unfamiliar with the place can think of it as Durham's answer to Raleigh's Second Empire. 

Four Square is located in a converted historic country home in residential Durham called the Bartlett Mangum House. Upon entering the restaurant the interior decor envelopes you with a warm and charming style. There is a six stool bar designed mostly as a sojourn for those arriving early for their reservation, but the bartender will gladly serve you a round of pre-dinner drinks. Wine by-the-glass offerings at Four Square are numerous considering the restaurant's size, and are moderately priced in the $8-10 dollar range. Tables are arranged with generous space in between and are loosely divided into three areas at the front of the house; the back of the house contains the kitchen and service areas. Diners typically wear jackets and business attire but the clientele is interspersed with enough Duke students on a date to prevent the place from being too stuffy. 

Four Square is known for its service, and it shows. You can expect that your waiter will not be the same person serving your food, refilling your water, or passing out bread. The waitstaff is knowledgeable about the extensive wine list, and can convey their knowledge without pressuring inquisitive guests into spending more money on a fancy bottle. If you can name a reasonable price you want to pay and the general flavor profile you're looking for, chances are they can help you choose an enjoyable bottle of wine to compliment your meal. 

Our first course was a cream of asparagus soup with baby shrimp and melba toast. The soup was very flavorful, and the waiter happily split a single order between two people. The second course was a baby artichoke pasta with sundried tomatoes, spinach, and chicken in a creamy broth. Normally one would think of chicken as the dominant ingredient here, but this presentation featured the marinated baby artichoke instead, and with great success. The chicken was only present in a small amount, but it was deeply flavored, perhaps smoked. I thought this dish was the star of the evening; I could have devoured an entree-sized serving of this dish! The pasta was handmade and the sauce was good enough to sop up with the freshly baked sourdough bread. Our wine of the evening was the Sanford Chardonnay 2007, which was a classic California Chardonnay - buttery and creamy, with flavors of pineapple, peach, apricot and vanilla, and good freshness on the front end. For the entree, a medium-sized piece of Mahi Mahi was set atop risotto and calamari in yellow lentil broth. The presentation was nice but ultimately the dish's flavor fell a bit flat. The fish was perfectly cooked on the inside - flaky, and moist, but it was missing that nice outside char that truly elevates any thick white fish. The risotto and calamari in yellow lentil broth was a play on paella, the popular Spanish seafood dish, but I found myself lamenting the fact that I only received one bite of calamari on the plate. Dessert was the great redeemer for Four Square. The dark chocolate torte with chai meringe served alongside strawberry sorbet in a praline cone was perfection on a plate. The chocolate torte was the thickest and richest I've tasted; it reminded me of an amazing red pepper chocolate torte from Zely & Ritz that I had a few weeks ago. And the strawberry sorbet was a soothing and refreshing palette cleanser. 

Despite the Triangle Restaurant Week $25 dinner pricing, one's bill at Four Square has a way of sneaking up. While the wine list does have ample options in the under $50/bottle range, the number of bottles under $40 is slim. And Four Square isn't the kind of place where one feels comfortable leaving much less than 20% gratuity. In fact, the waiter politely informed me that while it was policy to add 18% to all restaurant week tabs, he did not include gratuity leaving it up to me to decide an appropriate amount. While I appreciated not being treated like a table of six at Applebee's that just requested separated checks, I couldn't ignore the subtle implication of his comment - intended or not - that I was somehow a cheapskate if I left any less than 18%. Don't get me wrong, he deserved that much, especially since a meal at Four Square can take over 2 hours, but I do think there comes a point where the price of a bottle of wine should no longer be factored into the gratuity equation. You're paying 18% on the wine whether it costs $30 or $300. And the waiter is taking the same amount of time and energy to open it and pour it for you during the meal regardless of cost. I'm in favor of the policy of excluding alcohol cost from the bill when factoring tip and then adding a few dollars extra at the end to account for the wine service. But maybe that's just my inner law-student-strapped-with-outrageous-student-loan-debt coming through. If I had all the money in the world then I would tip everyone 20% no questions asked. Unfortunately that's not the case so if you disagree with me then just get over it. 

In the end, Four Square definitely deserves a spot on the short list of the top Triangle fine dining restaurants. The competition at the top is competitive, and Four Square's strength lies in its unique charm and fresh seasonal menus skillfully prepared from locally grown produce. Four Square's only downside, at least on my visit, was its failure to push the envelope further with bolder flavors and more unique ingredients. Nonetheless, Four Square is definitely a restaurant week "must try". That is if you don't mind driving to Durham. 

Triangle Restaurant Week Officially Begins!

I posted an article on New Raleigh so I won't repeat all the details on Vino Mundo. But starting today (Monday, May 11) and running through Sunday, May 17, participating restaurants throughout the Triangle will be offered fixed-price, three-course menus for lunch and/or dinner for $15 and $25, respectively. Some of the highlights include Four Square in Durham, Coquette, Duck & Dumpling, Frazier's, Savoy, Zely & Ritz, and Fleming's Steakhouse in Raleigh, and An in Cary. You can also check out the TRW website here for a full list of participating restaurants with clickable PDF format menus. Don't miss this chance to eat out on a budget at some amazing local restaurants!

Christian Audigier Unveils Ed Hardy Themed Wine to Fashion-Conscious Oenophiles

As Dan Neil of the L.A. Times put it, "perhaps no brand hookup makes less sense to me than Ed Hardy - a tattoo-themed street wear imprint of fashion megalomaniac Christian Audigier - and wine." 

Neil's story goes on to report that Audigier, who is from France but lives in Los Angeles, began his career as a designer of jeans and other clothing. Audigier is also the fashion criminal behind the Von Dutch trucker hat (worn by the likes of Ashton Kutcher, Britney Spears, and Madonna). In 2004, Audigier scored a licensing agreement with tattoo and graphics artist Ed Hardy, a Bay Area legend in ink, and soon Ed Hardy graphic designs began appearing on, well, everything: T-shirts, hoodies, purses and perfume, socks and sunglasses, barware and bedding, swimwear and underwear. The brand has pretty much exploded. 

I have recently been informed that there are actually two brands - Christian Audigier branded wine (bottom picture), which retails for around $20, was released last year, and is only available in limited quantities, and the Ed Hardy brand (top picture), which was recently released nationwide and retails for around $10. Check for the Ed Hardy wines at your local Whole Foods.

I have not tasted any of these wines yet but will report back as soon as I have. From what I hear, however, the wines are pretty good. If nothing else, you'll be sure to get a few glances with the colorful, tatooesque label adorning each bottle.

More Wine Tasting Notes from Corolla, NC

Well I must admit I got a bit sidetracked down at the beach and didn't keep my word of posting wine tasting notes on a daily or semi-daily basis. But I needed the break from my laptop! Now that I'm back I have listed several wines which I think you will enjoy.

Whites:

Perrin & Fils Reserve Cotes du Rhone (~$12-14) is a nice French white which features spicy notes on the front end followed by tropical fruits of pineapple and mango. There is some creamy vanilla flavors as well, but not as much as the Chalone (see below). I thought this wine was nicely balanced and quite nice. 

Chalone Monterray County Chardonnay ($9.99) hails from California, but outside of the more popular Napa or Sonoma counties. This was more buttery and creamy than the Perin, but without being syrupy, and was very round of flavor. This tastes like Chardonnay that costs two times as much. Definitely a weeknight bargain that would compliment grilled chicken nicely.

Tegernseerhof 'T26' Grüner Veltliner (Austria) ($12.75) was perhaps least impressive. It's not that it was bad, but nothing really jumped out at me either. It had very little sweetness and no length, at least for my palette, but went down very smooth. The flavor was almost like water to me; I couldn't discern any flavor. This can be a good thing for very light foods such as shellfish though. 

Rose and Red:

Schmitt Rosé Pinot Meunier (Germany) 2007 ($14) - this one was my "darkhorse" if you will; it's a pink wine made in Germany from a minor grape that's practically unheard of. Yet it was surprisingly good and an intriguing pick for your next dinner party. The bottle is elongated like many Rieslings and there was a nice effervescence to this wine that really cuts through your palette. The flavors were delicate: strawberry, flowers, rose water, and other light red berries and fruits. This one really dances on your tongue. 

Guy Saget Chinon 'Les Tenanceaux' (France) 2007 ($10.99) - most people who tasted this commented that it was thin and didn't have much flavor. I agree that it was a bit thin, but it did have a very intense black cherry flavor on the front end, which unfortunately dropped off completely in the mid-palette and finish.  It also had a nice dark reddish-purple color that dazzled in the glass. I think it was just a bit too austere for our purposes, and should be savoured slowly by itself rather than paired with food. It reminded me of inexpensive French burgundy or beaujolais, although it is made from Cabernet Franc (which is very similar).

Korta Barrel Selection Carmenere (Chile) - this wine is a must try! The luscious chocolate covered cherry and cassis overtones really shine through on the long finish. Various spices dote throughout the drinking experience. This shows why Chilean wines are so popular right now, but I wish certain local importers would focus more on quality. I have tasted so much Chilean wine recently and overall have been disappointed in the offerings. This is not the case with Korta Carmenere.